Substitute leather for shoe vamps



Jami), 1923. 1,441,318

E. WEINHEIM. SUBSVTITUTE LEATHER FOR SHQEVAMPs FILED Nov. 26. 1919.

NO STRETCH a nu; uto'z Patented Jan. 9, i923;

EMIL WEINHEIM, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

i SUBSTITUTE LEATHER FOR S HOE VAMPS.

Application filed November 26, 1919. Serial N 0. 340,762.

To all whom it may concern:

'. Be it known that I EMIL WErNHnrM, a

citizen of the United tates, and a resident of New York city, county and State of New.

York, have invented certain new and useful- Improvements in Substitute Leather for Shoe Vamps, set forth in the following specification.

In the commercial use of the multi-stretchable leather substitute described in my Patent No. 1,242,622, granted October 9, 1917, it has developed that, in the manufacture of certain articles such particularly as shoe Vamps and gloves, it is desirable to employ a substitute leather which is substantially inextensible in one direction, and which, at the same time, is substantially stretchable in :a direction at right angles. For example, in forminga vamp over a shoe last the vamp material must be stretchable in order to conform to the shape of the last,

Whereas in the finished shoe there should be no lengthwise stretch in the vamp. Like- .wise, in the manufacture of gloves the length of the fingers should be fixed and to this end the material of which the glove is constructed should have no stretch in the direction of the length of the fingers, although it should be yielding aroundthe fingers.

It is an object of the present invention to produce a leather substitute especially suitable for the manufacture of such articles as shoe vamps and loves. In other words, it is an object of t 'e' invention to produce a satisfactory leather substitute which. shall be substantially inextensible in one direction, while a substantial stretch in a direction at right angles is provided.

Prior to my inventions the body fabric employed in the manufacture of substitute leather has been a woven fabric having little or no stretch both in the direction of its length and breadth. In carrying out the object of my present invention I have discovered that there may be woven on a Travers loom a textile fabric which is substantially inextensible in the direction of its length or warp, but which has a'substantial stretch in the direction of the weft or filler. I propose the employment of a woven fabric made in such. machine but preferably woven in the machine with considerable extra tension placed upon the warp threads during the process of weaving.

A further ob]ect of this invention, in addin k I I I r I tron to merely the desired relatlonlng of 1nextensibility and stretch, is to form a single substitute fabric,which will provide within itself a. leather substitute outer and a combined lining so that, in the formation of shoe-uppers, one cutting and one forming over the last completes the shoe both as to lining and outer. Y

The above may better be understood by reference to the accompanying claims and the following specification, which sets forth an illustrative embodiment of the inventionin connection with a diagrammatic showing in the accompanying drawings, which form a part hereof. In the drawings, like characters designating corresponding-parts in the several figures,

Fig. 1 is a cross section through a sample of the preferred embodiment of my substi-. tute leather; j

Fig. 2 is a similar cross sectionthrough a modification from which the lining is omitted; and

Fig. 3 is a diagram illustrating the stretching and non-stretching qualities of the finished fabric.

technically wovengoods having a complex weave, a sample of which, for illustrative purposes, is attached hereto and made a part hereof, although I desire it'to be understood that, for the bodyfabric of my substitute leather, I contemplate the employment of any textile fabric which is substantially stretchable in one direction and substantially inextensible in the direction at right angles. Such a body fabric is indicated diagrammatically in the drawings by 1. This body fabric is treated with any suitable leatherizing dope to form a surface filling 2 and finish coating 3. Any suitable dope and any suitable method of application such as described in my aforementioned patent are contemplated. However, I prefer to employ the dope and method of application described in my patent for method and apparatus for manufacturing smoothly coated textile fabrics, granted August 19, 1919, No. 1.31%,655.

In making my preferred embodiment, if I fabric lining 4 similar to and extending in the same direction as the textile fabric 1 relatively to stretchability is rolled against the 'leatherfying dope body 5 before the complete setting of the said body so as to adhere strongly thereto with the leatherfying dope 5 penetrating the interstices of the textile fabric 4 but not extending through to the lining surface 6, which should be left unimpregnated and preferably carded to reduce friction when employed for liningpurposes. The carding produces anti-friction fibers-7.-

. If the method of impregnating recited in my Patent 1,313,655 is employed I prefer to unite the lining 4 with the body 1 by a) layer of a stretchable, adhesive material, preferably resilient, which may be a thin layer of rubber dissolved in a volatile solvent.

In Fig. 2 is illustrated my leather su b stitute Without a lining in which the unfinished surface 8 is smoothed off in the process of manufacture so that the completed fabric is substantially uniform in thickness.

I further desire it to be understood that I contemplate, in addition to the usual oxidizable oil dopesand pyroxyline dopes, the employment of any of the Well known rubbercompounds for a body filling and finish coating for my fabric.

The diagram of Fig. 3 is intended to em- 'phasize the stretching and non-stretching qualities of my finished fabric and applies both to the embodiment'of ,Fig. 1 and the embodiment of Fig. 2, although it is tobe understood that there is nothing in my invention which limits the non-stretchability or inextensibility to the direction of length,

while thestretchability is limited to the direction of breadth. Y

What I claim and desire to secure by United States Letters Patent is 1.An artificial substitute for leather of the type suitable for such articles as. shoe Vamps and gloves comprising a textile fabric body which is substantially inextensible in one direction and substantially stretchable in the direction at right angles, said body carrying afilling of stretchable leatherizing dope and having a finishing dope surface of a character different from said body fillin but stretchable co-extensively with said body, whereby the finished artificial substitute is workably stretchable in one direction and substantially inextensible in the direction at right angles.

2; An artificial substitute for leather of --the type suitable for such articles as shoe Vamps and gloves comprising-a textile fabric body' which is substantially inextensible in one direction and substantially stretchable in the direction at right angles, said body carrying a surface coating and filling of stretchable leatherizin dope, whereby the finished artificial substitute is workably stretchable in one direction and substantially inextensible inthe direction at right EMIL W'EINHEIM. 

